Early morning start to drive to Sur, a city along the coast of the Arabian Sea. The topography is jagged, small mountains and desert-like landscape. It’s 8am and already 34 degrees. I’m careful not to speed as there’s radar every couple of kilometres clocking our pace. Not to mention the car beeps loudly at me if I drive over 120km/hr.
Our first stop is Bimmah Sinkhole for a swim but our GPS seems to be having issues plotting a route as it has us turning off on to a rutted, dirt track. This is a busy tourist spot, so it seems unlikely that there wouldn’t be a sign posted for the turn-off.
Becca says, “Well, you wanted adventure so here you go.”
We can see a paved road ahead of us in the distance and believe that’s where we actually need to be so continue on hoping there isn’t a barrier preventing us from merging onto the road. The GPS then tries to take us off on another route but I see a gate and several buildings in the distance so assume that’s where we need to be. Turning in, the gate is closed. Maybe we’re still not in the right location? As I’m about to drive away, I see a man waving at us in the rear view mirror and stop. As soon as he approaches, I begin peppering him with questions as to where the sinkhole is, are we in the correct location, etc.
He smiles and motions to slow down. He says,
“Good morning. How are you? Are you enjoying the beautiful day?”
Right. Take a breath Jennifer. Pleasantries first, then the questions.
He introduces himself as Juma and tells us we’re in the correct place and one of the first arrivals, which is a pleasant surprise as it can be very busy. We follow him through the gate and he invites us for dates and coffee before we visit the sinkhole. We sit in the shade of a tree on a large plastic, woven carpet while sipping coffee and chatting. Juma and his friend ask what our plan is while in Oman and I mention that we want to visit Wadi Tiwi and Wadi Shab but a bit unsure of how to get there or where the trails are that lead into the wadi. Juma advises that it would be difficult for us to navigate on our own and suggests that he could guide us for a discounted price. Becca and I discuss it and decide that we’re going to take advantage of his hospitality.
We walk a short distance to the sinkhole, which is a large crater in the rock bed, filled with turquoise saltwater. Four others are enjoying the site and we say hello. I immediately get in the water to cool off and little fish start to nibble my toes and legs. As I’m paddling around, a young woman approaches us and asks us where we’re from. We chat with her for a bit and learn that she’s originally from Iran and has lived in Oman for the past two years. She says the political situation in her country, along with how difficult it can be for women, persuaded her to leave. Her English is excellent considering she’s only learned while in Oman through friends.
It’s time to head to Tiwi with Juma so we pack up our belongings and head back to the car. We’ll follow Juma in his vehicle to the outskirts of the area and then he’ll hop in our SUV and take over the driving. The concrete, single lane “road” immediately narrows, with large drop-offs on one side, tight ess turns and steep inclines. I’m glad I’m not driving as it would’ve been stressful trying to navigate on our own.
Juma explains that he’s originally from one of the 5 villages and his mother still resides here. Date plantations dot the landscape and dark green water pools in the valleys. Juma tells us that Oman is very open compared to other countries in the area and encourage tourism. He mentions that gay people are welcome and Becca and I look at each other.
“Hold on, hold on. We are NOT a couple! I have a husband at home!” Becca says laughing.
“No, no. It’s fine. We are most welcoming. I am just saying. It is not a problem for us.” Juma says. He seems mortified that he’s insulted us.
“Ok, but just to reiterate, we are most definitely not a couple. We’re just friends.” I laughingly say. I guess it’s not a stretch to think that two middle-aged women travelling together could be a couple as normally we would most likely be travelling with our significant others.
We arrive at the last village, Mibam, and leave the vehicle with all our belongings. Becca and I are sceptical that our stuff is safe but Juma assures us so we reluctantly acquiesce. We hike a short way through a date plantation, following the falaj system (aqueduct carrying water through the villages). We descend into a canyon reaching a small waterfall. We have the place to ourselves which adds to how amazing the location is already. We jump off large rocks into the water far below, slip our way down a natural rock slide into a small basin of water, swim through the canyons and sit under small waterfalls. Juma has taken charge of the photography and ferrying our backpack through the waterways by swimming either with one hand or no hands, holding the pack and cellphone high above his head. A perfect way to spend a hot, sunny day and we couldn’t have done it with without him. I would’ve bailed on driving the treacherous road before the halfway point and we never would’ve located the trailhead on our own.
Juma suggests that we visit Wadi Shab today as well instead of putting it off for tomorrow since we’re so close already. It would save us a long drive and he suggests that we really need a guide to get the full experience. Since we’ve had such a great morning already with Juma, the decision is easily made and we head to Wadi Shab.
A quick boat ride to the other side of the wadi where the trail begins and we set off in the intense afternoon heat for a 45 minute hike. The canyon walls look like they’re made up of a rock and clay mixture and the white rocks on the trail are worn smooth by years of footsteps. Juma assists us on the slippery, hot rocks. Have I mentioned that he’s been barefoot since we left Bimmah Sinkhole? How the bottoms of his feet aren’t completely blistered is beyond me.
We reach the swimming spot and leave our backpack in the shade. Again, Juma assures us that our belongings will be safe. We swim through deep canyons, clamber over slippery rocks, climb down rocks using ropes with Juma placing our feet with his hands while saying “Schwei, schwei” (slowly, slowly), jump off large rocks into the water below, climb up a waterfall (again with Juma hauling us up the rope), jump off a waterfall and swim through a space just big enough for our head and shoulders to fit through to a cavern. Without Juma’s assistance, guidance and vocal encouragement we wouldn’t have experienced any of this. We repeatedly say to each other that we’re so grateful to have met him. He made the day very special and we lucked out that each spot we visited had literally no other people.
We drop Juma off at his vehicle and tell him we’ll most likely see him Saturday morning as he’s suggested he would like to take us to Wadi Bani Canyon which is on the way to our next destination, Wahiba Sands. I mention that it’s my birthday on Saturday and Juma says that we must do it then to mark the special occasion.
It’s been a long day but so much fun and we make the 1.5 hour drive to our accommodation, Sama Ras Al Jinz, which is an eco-lodge outside of Sur near the Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve. It’s off the grid, with no wifi and no town nearby. There numerous “cabins” constructed of palm frond roofs, woven palm frond walls and ceilings, and stone floors. Each cabin has a little patio with a table and chairs to sit out in the morning and evening. We’ve been upgraded on arrival and our cabin is very spacious with two twin beds and a double-sink bathroom. The open-air restaurant has a palm frond roof with the leaves hanging down, giving it a grass-like appearance. The seat cushions are colourful weaves and the table top is bright tile.
After getting cleaned up, we head for dinner and a relaxing evening. A big day.
